Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Trip to Vienna & Budapest Day 5&6

My biggest reason for travel is sightseeing. The top of the Eiffel, Big Ben, La Sagrada Familia and Robben Island are just some of the most notable attractions I've been fortunate to visit. I also love touring and learning about historical sites. In fact, one of the biggest reasons I love South Africa is because the government (and in some cases private citizens) have done such a great job of documenting its history.

So when I heard about the Terra Gaza in Budapest, and saw so many recommendations to visit it on Trip Advisor, I knew I had to go, especially since it was a five-minute stroll from my hotel. It was my first stop on my last day in Budapest and... Here's a disclaimer, I do not wish to disrespect anyone who may have any connection to the museum or the history behind the museum's creation, but it was a disappointment. I expected a lot more than I got. Actually, I got nothing from it.

The Terra Gaza, aka House of Terror, was created in honor of victims of the Communist and the Nazi regimes in Hungary beginning in the 1940s. Even a quick search for information, including on its website here doesn't yield any historical information except to indicate when the museum was created. I paid 2000F (you can pay an additional1500F for an audio guide, but you get paper audio guides in each section,) and spent no longer than 90 minutes in it. The final 30 minutes was spent buying time before I left for my next stop. I left not getting a real grasp of how things were. Sure I got that millions were tortured, thousands murdered. But I didn't get a connection like I did at the various museums in South Africa detailing its history with Apartheid.

The word "TERROR" etched on the roof
Terra Gaza, aka House of Terror
Entrance to the museum
 I must have visited more than 10 such museums in Cape Town and Johannesburg and was drawn uniquely to each story. With the House of Terror, not only are you prohibited from taking pictures, which I don't really get because nothing inside is at risk of deteriorating under the glare of lights, but there isn't a clear indication of where to begin besides the gate keeper saying, "Go to second floor." I ended up seeing some parts of it out of sequence. In fact, I think the disallowing of pictures is so that no visual representation is out there to show how boring it was. Sure I had plenty of chances to take pictures, but I didn't care. It was just story after story of individuals' personal stories of being imprisoned or tortured, which upon entering a room you have no indication of when it started or how long it is without staying until it started over. Some rooms had three different videos playing simultaneously, but no video or pictures from the period. There was also no genuine continuity from room to the next, setting up the years as they went by. If I had visited this place any day besides my last day, I would have been upset. But since I had hours to kill before my 9 p.m. train back, I hung in there for about 90 minutes; the shortest time I've ever spent at a historical center.

My next stop was the Central Market Hall, which I had been looking forward to. I hoped to score so many local finds that I'd be struggling to make my maximum weight at the check-in counter. Sadly it turned out it was closed. It doesn't open on Sundays? Why? I blame myself for not doing my research and just assuming one of the most popular attractions in Budapest would be open year round. I walked down to a smaller mall close by, with a few stalls open. I came with some money hoping to walk away with a few unique things, but left the Antique Market in the Bálna empty.


Central Market Hall
Empty hallway of the market

I didn't even try the food at the antique market, which was mostly sweets and pastries. I was startled by a huge dog walking around the second floor of the mall unaccompanied. What is it about Europe and stray dogs? I saw a lot of of dogs strolling unattended throughout my stay, especially in Vienna, where every homeless person on the street seemed to have a dog; some two. If you know me, you know how scared I am of dogs, but something about the way everyone went about unperturbed, made me feel less concerned as well. Maybe dogs in Europe are not raised in the same beastly way they are in the U.S. Back to the mall...well no, there's nothing worth writing about anymore, except the very good singers, who sounded American, entertaining people on the first floor, coffee shop style. The guy was also a guitarist.

The Antique Market in the Bálna, which opens Sunday
Since the main thing I had planned today (shopping) was out of the picture, I wandered into a cave church at the bottom of Gellert Hill in a bid to kill time. There was a service going on so visitors weren't allowed into the main worship hall, but there was plenty to look at for free in the visitors area.




As I headed back to my hotel, I stumbled on a street market and scored a few things. After a quick stop at my hotel, I headed to the uber popular Széchenyi bath house. It was the perfect way to end my day, and my stay in Budapest. The heat emanating from the water...Uhmmm..no words to describe. But I couldn't help but feel awkward. I was the only black person in the entire bath house, and as soon as I stepped into the water, a lady took a picture of me. It could've been the ugly shower cap I had on my head though.

The hottest of three outdoor pools at the Széchenyi bath house



I became too conscious. And alone. I couldn't have wanted company anymore than during my hours there. Eventually an American couple from San Francisco came in with their two college-age daughters and we chatted for a bit. I actually forced myself into the conversation by telling them what else the place had to offer as the mother wondered out loud. Then right before I left, I spotted another black girl, who turned out to be Nigerian as well. No, we didn't chat, but I caught her accent when I ventured close enough to hear her educating her oyibo partner on Nigeria when they weren't sucking  on their faces.

Finally my trip was over. Stopped at a bar near my hotel to try the tourist-popular goulash soup. I didn't want to leave without seeing what the fuss was all about. It was alright. It's essentially cubed meats, potatoes and carrots in a broth. It was more potatoes than meat though, but it was OK.


And finally I was off, back to Vienna on the night train.

With one more day left, I was starting to feel the effect of touring in two countries. I could only manage one more place, which was the Belvedere Palace. What this palace lacks in its interior unlike, Schönbrunn Palace, it makes up for with its spectacular grounds. I didn't pay to tour inside because it's more of an art exhibit, but touring its grounds is free. And for free, this is what you get...



I had such a great trip, as you can probably tell from my detailed account. I was a bit skeptical about embarking on a solo trip, but I have to say it's the reason I was able to document so much. I have already booked my next trip, which at the moment is shaping up to be a partial solo trip. But I can't give that secret away yet. Thanks for stopping by to share my travel adventure with me.



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