Thursday, May 28, 2015

Bangkok, Thailand in the Spring

My last few trips were to European countries, and on one of those trips to Istanbul, Turkey, I had the opportunity to cross over by ferry to Asia. I was with my travel buddy Lolade and we both agreed that we needed to take a proper trip to Asia. She was supposed to be on my trip to Vienna and Budapest, but couldn't make it at the last minute. So when she called me on one December day to discuss going to Asia, I was game.

We both agreed on Bangkok, but had different opinions on what second country to make a stop at, so we decided we would split after Bangkok. I also couldn't take a two-week long vacation like she could so it made sense to enjoy Bangkok and then split up.

I took off on a Korean Air flight from Houston to Korea's Incheon Airport where, 13 hours later, I met up with Lolade who flew in from Atlanta. Ever since I read a magazine article about how blacks in America are not keen on traveling, I have become somewhat obsessed with identifying as many black people as I can on international flights. There were none on my flight. Lolade said she had several on her flight, so I'm glad there's proof out there that black people travel. It wasn't long before we were cracking up endlessly as we waited for our connecting flight, drawing the attention of two Canadian men also traveling to Bangkok. I love traveling with Lolade cos she's very outgoing in striking up convos with strangers while I'd be planted on my seat if I was solo.
Meeting up with Lolade at Incheon Airport

We arrived in Thailand close to midnight and had a smooth entry save for the small hiccup with having to go back to Health Control because African passports need to be stamped with a satisfactory bill of health. We got to our hotel, the U Sukhumvit Hotel, after midnight and immediately hit the streets for some street food since restaurants were closed. We came during the Songkran Festival so there were still a few people with water guns spraying passers-by. But more on that later. Our hotel room looked really luxurious, particularly the bathroom with its overhead showers and a special feature affixed to the toilet that is clearly designated for one thing.




After filling our bellies with the hotel's buffet breakfast, the next morning, we hopped into a cab headed to the Grand Palace. Thailand is so affordable relative to the dollar so we wanted to avoid the heat (the humidity was on another level,) and the celebratory drench of water on us had we chosen to take a tuk tuk or some other mode of transportation. The cab was a much-needed luxury. As for the palace, I wish I could tell you amazing things about this tourist attraction like I've done at other locations, but my travel buddy and I were extremely confused by this site. For 500 baht, we got a confused, disorganized and boisterous spot that left us underwhelmed. I'm used to historic and religious tourist sites being treated as sacred places relatively void of commercialism. But not this Palace. Beautiful as the structures and statues were, it was noisy, chaotic, and with no clear direction on where to go. In fact, all of the places we toured had huge commercial action within the walls of the structure.



We left and caught a tuk tuk to the Wat Pho, wherein lies the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. Most, if not all temples in Bangkok pay homage to some kind of Buddha, but this one was different in its posture. Featuring a 43m long Buddha, coated in gold leaf and laying on its side, this was a break from the traditional Buddha postures.

The reclining Buddha, coated in gold, lies 43m long


 It was a short walk around the temple. And for 100 baht it was nice. The other temples and attractions around it were not appealing. The grounds were noisy, with a lot of commercial activity going on. I wasn't too pleased with this site.

Tourist praying in front of a Buddha
While people sell food and souvenirs nearby
We also indulged in a traditional Thai massage, which the massage school on its grounds are famous for. For 260 baht, you get a 30 min massage that's well worth it, especially after all the walking we had been doing. Just thinking about how seemingly every bone was cracked in my body is bringing back gleeful memories. Finally we took a short ferry for 3 baht to Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, which was closed at the time so we were able to get in for free and just walk the grounds, which didn't have much to see at that point.

We were quite tired when we got back, so we opted to eat dinner at the rooftop of the hotel where I had the lamb confit while chatting with three male traveling buddies from California. Another convo initiated by Lolade. We closed the night out with a swim in the rooftop pool, which stays open until 11pm.

Lamb confit
I love swimming underwater
The next day we booked a private trip to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market through our hotel and were chauffeured the 90 minute drive to this popular tourist destination by Few Sirpong, who was also our tour guide. The concept of the floating market is so cool that even if you don't buy a thing, it's still worth the tour. There was so much traffic on the waterway, and we supposedly had a slow day thanks to the period being the New Year. We didn't buy anything on the advice of our driver who suggested getting it cheaper in Bangkok (where he says majority of the wares are brought from.) We also took a walking tour of the area then had an arranged lunch at a market food stall, which was part of our package. We concluded our trip with a ride atop an elephant. It wasn't as exciting as I expected, and before it was over we were feeling sorry for the elephants and our presumed exploitation of them. They all generally looked unkempt and worn out. Their stalls also looked dirty and my expectation of playing with an exotic looking elephant was a distant figment of my imagination. Lolade, on the other hand, actually got to play with elephants at one of her other stops.









Few Sirpong, our private tour driver
Enjoying lunch at the floating market
Riding an elephant


We had some time to spare before Few took us to our evening's entertainment, which was the perfect time to participate in the Songkran festival at Si Lom. This is a national festival that involves soaking each other in water. April is the hottest month in Thailand, so this festival was introduced to help people keep cool for about three days by soaking up in cold water. So if you are caught walking the streets, it is assumed you are fair game. Even people riding in bikes and tuk tuks weren't exempt. It was a lot of crazy fun getting soaked to our skins, but in light of the current drought in California, I couldn't help but wonder how much water is wasted during this period. In any case, here's how crazy the atmosphere was. It was absolutely fun even as we cringed when we were doused with ice cold water.
The packed train steps headed down to Si Lom for Songkran

My partner in crime getting a rare break from being soaked

Go ahead, lay it on me! This area was packed with thousands of people.


Later that evening, Few drove us to the Asiatique Riverfront Bazaar for a Lady Boy (aka drag queen) show at the Calypso restaurant, which included a reenactment performance of Lady Gaga's ode to Julie Andrews and Sound of Music at this year's Oscar's.


If you know anything about Thailand, it is probably how skilled they are in transforming transsexual men into beautiful women. Lolade and I kept trying to figure out who was possibly a woman, who was masquerading as a man masquerading as a transsexual get it?) They were that convincing. We stayed at the riverfront to partake in some retail therapy and have dinner at the Crostini Italian Restaurant, and didn't get back to our hotel until well after midnight.


Some of the show's performers taking pictures for a "tip"

Our last day in Bangkok, and we finally got to sleep in for a little bit. We scheduled a massage (another popular indulgence in these parts.) I rode a bike, Lolade walked. It was amazing!


Once again, we stopped by our hotel's rooftop for lunch, drinks and to lounge before our last event in the city. We were picked up for our dinner aboard the White Orchid River Cruise, which we boarded at the River City Mall.

Had a fun and amazing time aboard the White Orchid River Cruise


It was the perfect way to end our trip. Buffet was to die for and we met so many people from various parts of the world.  The entire experience was absolutely worth every penny we spent. We closed the night joining the cruise singer in a collection of songs. Sadly, the next day Lolade departed for Chiang Mai, then Phuket and eventually to Singapore. While I boarded my flight headed to Beijing, which you can read about in my next post.